Highjacking this forum cause motorcyle guys are generaly good mechanics

1982 GM 3.8 Lt. V6
1) changed the cap and rotor (being nice to my friend the engine)
2) Car ran kinda surgy
3) Developed a cough and miss at low RPM like throttle let off and starts at lights
4) Cried like a baby cause the cap seemed to have a loose pole/contact got a replacement no change
5) Checked vacuum lines all over nothing
6) Sprayed carb cleaner
7) Dry Gas
8 )Gas treatment
9) Gas Filter sorry..........fuel filter
10) Changed O2 Sensor
11) Took it to a friend....... good mech I guess said coil or MAP sensor
12) noticed that if I drag the break just a bit it straightens out and runs like the bear it is
13) Plugged off Vac boost for breaks on a long straight away away from harm to check if that was it
14) Took it to a guy who is "very" mechanically on top of things (built a T- bucket restowed a 68 stang and the like ETC ETC he suggested that I "passed over" the two little brass tubes "vent ports" I believe when I sprayed the carb cleaner. Got on those and noticed it ran a little worse.
15) Got home and my departed fathers voice told me to spray the vents again and let sit over night.
16) Posted on randyayersmodeling the break dragging and was told ..and I quote

17) The hunting ,uncontrolled idle sounds like a vacuum leak that's allowing unmetered air into the engine that the Idle Air Control Solenoid can't correct for. CAREFULLY spraying brake clean or carb cleaner around the intake gasket/ intake area can find it pretty quick- but BEWARE that leaking plug wires WILL start a fire if you're not careful! The best way would be to scan it and see what the IAC counts are...if they're very low or at zero that means that the IAC has closed completely in order to correct for a vacuum leak. Also- if your car has a Mass Airflow sensor and not a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and you loosened the air intake boot, you might have built a vacuum leak into it if you left the boot clamps loose. The vehicle will run differently under braking or acelleration due to engine movement. It's also possible that you knocked a vacuum line off or broke a vacuum T or rubber hose end. Those vacuum lines plastic? If so- Check Them All! If you just move 'em a bit when they're old they WILL break. If All Else Fails- put the old parts back on and see how it runs...I've changed tune up parts before and then had a car that wouldn't start (DON'T buy cheap rotors!), so you never know!

18) I was told I paid for and got the better rotor
19) Have not tried to start it yet today.
20) What do you think?

Views: 115

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by alan4s on May 1, 2012 at 3:17pm

Have you checked the timing?

Permalink Reply by WJM on May 1, 2012 at 4:02pm
12) noticed that if I drag the break just a bit it straightens out and runs like the bear it is

ECM/ECU. Some early 80's 3.8 V6's had a crappy 4Kbyte EPROM

Permalink Reply by Mike Kenyon on May 1, 2012 at 8:36pm

@Michael, refresh my memory.This is carburated and has an HEI distributor ?(a rare time I'll recommend MSD parts or use AC Delco)
What was the first issue and how long ago did it start?
For all GM runability issues don't be suprised if it's the fuel pump if it's electric in the tank.

Permalink Reply by J.R. Sands on May 1, 2012 at 8:54pm

I had a problem close to that years ago. Turned out to be a distributor shaft, inside of the housing. Worn out. Took a good one out of another small block and it was running great....

Permalink Reply by Michael Martinez on May 1, 2012 at 10:23pm

Changed cap and rotor fired it up and it ran pulsing thats how it all started. I am not dropping a C-note on an Ecu just yet. I heard these are BBBBBhhhhhhhhhkk
was told twice in one day that this two barrel carb they popped on this engine is a cock sorry gas sucker to us all. I've equated this "car trouble" to waking every morning with someone who is cheating on you and suspect it and wish life was good and honesty was like sunshine and just talking to it could make it all rosy. I'll start the car tomorrow throw some more carb cleaner in the little tiny holes with a horse poker and see what blows out the ass end. What I was told was that these are no longer in play at higher RPM when I roll down the thruway at 60 all seems okay. And as much as I F around on this site my cousin has a 57 panhead for sale. I went to look at a bike today with him as trade bait but no way. All serious inquiries about this bike can be made to flocksjerky@aol.com he has out of state folks give the old letter of intent then a check then blah blah but he is worried. It was my uncles bike.............. great great great man. As per price research what these are at then brace yourself for a realistic exchange ................it does need work. it is not 100% correct......(tanks springer front I believe.)

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